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February 4th, 2006, 11:12 PM
#21
lowracer
Guest
So is Glitsa a urethane or what? I never got a straight answer from the floor guys. Then again, they spent all their work day inhaling Glitsa fumes, their brains were fried!
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February 4th, 2006, 11:32 PM
#22
Inactive Member
Glitsa manufactures alcohol based and water based...they may also do a poly, not certain of that. If you've got a can of product laying around, the label clearly and prominently states "waterborne" is that is what it is. if no cans are to be found, check with the installer. A glista finish is a very difficult finish to damage...unless you drag a 425 pound stove across the floor [who would do that ?] and put some scratches in it, chances are good that you won't damage in under normal use.
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February 4th, 2006, 11:40 PM
#23
Inactive Member
This is for Them Pikes. I don't understand how your safety system can work. If you took your Pilot gas from the rear of the Thermostat, It will be controled by the Oven Handle. So, when you cut off the oven, The pilot will go out and the safety will drop out and have to be reset. I seems to me that you will have to light your pilot every time you turn on the oven and push the reset button. The pilot should be connected to a gas source that is available no matter what position any gas handles are in.
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February 5th, 2006, 04:11 AM
#24
Inactive Member
I would definately let Asfan guide you on this one. He's got mucho experience dealing with contractors!!
One word of advice----references!!
We were without a kitchen for about 6 months. Hubby did most of the work and only contracted the flooring out. He did the plumbing which the major thing was relocating the water heater. He did all the electical, carpentry work, crown molding, custom made shelves, frame work, etc.... He even cut down my grandmothers canning shelf to fit properly in the space!! I just the painter, project planner and decorator.
He's just a super handy dandy talented hubby!! Along with being a **** retentive perfectionist!!
Here's our [url="http://community.webshots.com/album/128473726ZKcQnp"]kitchen remodel[/url]. I need to update the pics of some small things he finished out but haven't. He made the breakfast table in high school!! He's just a talented and knowledgable guy!!
[img]biggrin.gif[/img] I'm one lucky person to have him!!
Berlyn
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February 5th, 2006, 04:33 AM
#25
Inactive Member
Great info on Kitchen design! We put one cadinet of drawers in our kitchen and wish we had done more. Your suggestion on lighting is right on, too. We didn't put any undercabinet lights at first, but found out at the first meal prep that we messed up. I only took me 2 years for me to get around to putting up the undercounter lights. We must have read your mind on the other items also. Wood floors are so much easier on our old knees and backs. We had to cut down a big Red Oak tree to make room for the house and had it cut up into 3/4" thick boards. Used the red oak for the counter top. Gave the oak several coats of poly what ever varnish and it is holding up great. Again, I know it is your business and you must be very good at it because all of your suggestions are right on! Thanks, Sam
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February 5th, 2006, 04:50 AM
#26
Inactive Member
Hubby suggested under cabinet lighting and did it.
The best thing ever!! I absolutely love it!!
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February 8th, 2006, 03:30 AM
#27
Inactive Member
Robert, thanks for all the advise. We've been thinking about this kitchen remodel for years - saving until we could do it without borrowing the money lol... Nothing short of CUBIC DOLLARS. The MRS is very practical on most things but she insist on Hickory cabinets with a medium stain. Granite counter tops, MATTY in her spot under the wooden range hood, undercounter xenon lighting, recessed lighting in the ceiling.
Excellent idea on the slide out trays in the cabinets being a space hog. Think she'll change her mind and also save some bucks. One hundred pound rating on the drawers is an excellent option too.
I'll look into the Chicago facuet Mrs has a style in mind. It's a brand I will search out on the internet.
We have red oak wooden flooring 1 1/2" wide and will stick to that.
Incidently we'll be removing a load bearing wall making a 13 x 16 kitchen. We might add an island. And are talking with only two kitchen remodeling companies that have been around a long time. We'll pick one of them and turn them loose. I'd do it myself but we can't be down for months and I'm not as young as I used to be.
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February 8th, 2006, 11:05 AM
#28
Inactive Member
Robert,
Thanks for the exciting info on kitchen design. I installed base cabinet drawers when I was on Kauai, a couple of years ago. I really found them useful. It truely is amazing what you can fit in them - I guess it is because the drawer sides contain the stack (I have a lot of accroutrament ). How long can a drawer be? I have a 14 X 14 kitchen with (right now any way) 4 door openings. One side is a walkway. In the end I have to juggle the cabinet layout to get good storage. I will be removing one door, and this will leave a long counter (about 10 feet or so) that will have a lazy susan at the corner (are these still the best use of corner space?) Do you see a long bank of drawers (on a peninsula arrangement) ? Will that look pleasing?
I am planning to use butcher block counter tops and a stone island top, real linoleum (my floor is not quite flat so I can't use tile), cabinets a to be made by my cabinet making class (so I get to design them!) I think white with a small arch in the toe kick and frame and panel doors, an Ikea apron white farm sink (great price and fabulous looking), I like the idea of white and wood with my copper C. Perhap the floor to be a verdigris shade - perhaps checkered with cream.
Any comments? THanks for offering to be a resource! I wish everyone on this site could live near me! What a pool of talent we would be!
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February 8th, 2006, 12:09 PM
#29
Inactive Member
Hi Phoebe, It sounds like you are well on your way using the right materials for the job. I'm beginning to see it as the Chambers Way...design it right, built it right and use it forever. I've designed drawers as wide as 36 inches. Drawers that large are fabulous for lots of storage of larger items, large boxes, cans, bag and also for storage of dinner service, stacks of plates, bowls and service pieces. Corners are best suited for the Lazy Susan. No more dead ends or blind corners. Think about a BIG Lazy Susan, a floor to ceiling model. I have a floor to ceiling Lazy Susan in my kitchen and it is the best component of all. The look of a long row of drawer bases is fantastic. Layout the drawer widths to accomodate your work needs, narrow drawers near the sink and dishwasher....wider drawers in prep and work areas...I think the long bank of drawers is the most visually pleasing look around. AHHHH!!!! LINOLEUM!!!!! The best [along with Cork]. Hundreds of colors and patterns, unbeatable wear and maintenance. Easy installation. Forbo offers the nicest [in my opinion], Armstrong has offerings too but I do not find their selection or product as nice as Forbo. When laying out your kitchen, with your inventory list in hand, really think about where you want each particular item...hold a rolling pin in your hand and think about where it should be for ultimate ease....do you want it in a long narrow drawer or a wide drawer ? In a wide drawer, it will roll back and forth, ina narrow drawer, it will remain fairly still...the art of zen and your kitchen tools ! It works !
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February 8th, 2006, 01:51 PM
#30
Inactive Member
Since we are off-grid I made sure to only get light fixtures that would accept compact florescent bulbs. Although it seemed like most of the really neat fixture were halogen, I did find some great ones that took medium base bulbs. Halogen are really hot and use a lot more energy than compact florescent - just one more thing to keep in mind.
Ann
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